First impressions: Despite its strip-mall location, Siri Thai in Palatine does a fine job of fancying things up.
Napkins are cloth, soups and curries come in pretty blue-andwhite tureens that match the dishes, and
water is served in goblets. One whole side of the large dining room is lined with comfy booths,
each named for one of the nine King Ramas of Thailand. The deep-red walls, with gold stenciling along
the top, are adorned with pictures of the rulers, Thai travel posters, paintings and needlework.

On the plate: The vast menu sports most of the dishes you'll find at every Thai restaurant: satay, pad thai,
cucumber salad, tom yum soup, basil chicken. But some out-of-the-ordinary offerings are available as well,
including steamed escargot with spicy coconut milk, mussels with basil, and sizzling duck with spicy sweet
and sour sauce. There also is a good number of vegetarian offerings, including the "Queen of Palatine,"
chive dumplings served with sesame sauce.

At your service: Service is efficient but not overly helpful in guiding diners through the menu's less familiar
dishes. Then again, one evening the single server was charged with greeting, seating, taking orders, mixing
drinks and answering the phone. If ordering carryout, be assured that your food will be carefully packed.

Second helpings: Start with an order of spring rolls, which are not the usual stickysauce-drenched offerings
found at most Thai spots. Instead, three fat rice-paperwrapped rolls are filled with rice vermicelli, lettuce,
scrambled egg, shrimp and chicken and served with a thin plum/peanut sauce on the side.

We also liked the nam sod salad: ground chicken, whole cashews, slivers of ginger and purple onion, and
cilantro leaves tossed in a tart lime dressing.

Duck curry is another good choice, with its mix of roasted meat, red and green peppers, pineapple chunks
and tomatoes in a spicy red sauce. Volcano fried rice, which isn't as fiery as its name might imply, is
nonetheless a tasty side dish that doesn't stint on the shrimp. Pad see ewe, with its fat rice noodles,
crispy beef and Chinese broccoli, is a winner among the noodle dishes.

Take a pass: Tom kha kai, the often wonderful chicken coconut soup, is thinner and much less puckery
than it should be. The meatball and beef soup has a fabulously fragrant broth, but the meatballs are
downright rubbery. Pad thai is overly sweet.

Thirst quenchers: Coffee, lemonade, soft drinks, as well as beer, wine and mixed drinks are available.

Extras: Weekday lunch specials, a bargain at $6.95-$7.95, include a variety of rice, noodle and curry dishes
along with a soft drink, a cream-cheese-filled fried wonton and a tangy bowl of hot and sour soup that's
brimming with tofu and vegetables. Thai classical dancing is offered some nights.

Price range: Appetizers, $5.95-$8.95; soups, $6.95-$12.95; noodles, $7.95-$8.95; entrees, $6.95-$14.95;
desserts, $4.95; non-alcoholic beverages, $1.50-$3.95; alcoholic beverages, $3-$7.

Siri Thai
(2 forks)
40 W. Palatine Rd., Palatine 847-776-7600
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thu.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; noon-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: M, V
Delivery: Yes
Noise: Conversation-friendly
Other: No smoking
NEARBY
String along: BeadWorld (8 S. Brockway St., Palatine; 847-776-2323) sells Indonesian glass, Swarovski
crystal, vintage German and oodles of other types of beads and necklaces.
Saddle up: Palatine Stables (1510 W. Northwest Hwy., Palatine; 847-359-0009) offers horseback riding
lessons and weekend pony rides throughout the winter.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits; meals are paid for by the Tribune.